For most things in knitting, there are several ways to accomplish the same thing, or nearly the same thing with subtle differences. And that certainly is the case when it comes the double yarn over sequence in lace knitting.

Several weeks ago, we covered the simple technique of working k1, p1 into the double yarn over of a previous row (see Distinctive and Decorative – the Double Yarn Over). The k1, p1 sequence is probably the most commonly encountered because it is simple to explain and do (being that it requires no special knowledge of other stitches beside a basic knit and purl stitch). Also, from my trials, it appears to result in the most open and symmetrical of the double yarn over eyelet versions.

This sequence of k1, p1 will leave a little “dimple” at the top of the resulting eyelet (somewhat like the indention of a heart?). It’s hardly noticeable, but it is there. You can either view it as charming (well, I do love hearts, lol) or you might prefer a different look. That is where I am offering you an opportunity to play around with “nearly the same thing with subtle differences”.

Somewhat fortunately, lace edgings often are designed to be used as a reversible fabric (i.e. garter stitch based). Not always, but it’s quite common. So how you treat the double yarn over on a return row could depend upon whether you are working a stockinette-based lace or garter-based. There are no set rules — mostly it is a matter of design and preferred taste.

Play around with these sequences on the return row of a double yarn over and see which flavor(s) are your preferred:

• k1, p1
• p1, k1
• k1, k1tbl
• k1tbl, k1tbl
• p1, p1tbl
• k1, p1tbl
• others you can devise?

Note: k1tbl = k1 stitch through back loop; p1tbl = p1 stitch through back loop

In a comment on April 1, Mary Beth offered:

When knitting back the double yarn over, I tend to K the first YO and Ktbl in the second. It leaves a simple (cleaner?) line and I can do it faster than K-P.

I do think the k1, k1tbl does give a somewhat cleaner line on the top of the eyelet of the side facing you as you work that row (which in many lace patterns with a definite RS and WS, that return row will be a WS row). Do be aware of what the reverse side looks like, too, as in many lace patterns that is going to be the more commonly viewed RS.

A subtle difference I notice when doing a k1, k1tbl sequence, is that the  twisted leg of the k1tbl stitch sort of pulls toward the center of the eyelet, therefore making that side of the eyelet a little less open and somewhat asymmetrical. However, if you prefer a method because it is faster and more enjoyable, that can have a lot going for it. After all, knitting should be fun and most people are not going to be looking at each strand of the knitting with a magnifying glass, anyway.

So, are you up to the fun of trying out some of these variations? I’ve given you some of my ideas. Please chime in with your favorite (or favorites) like Mary Beth has. Remember, there is no right or wrong. And you might even point out something the rest of us had not even noticed or considered before.

In Part 1 of Striving for Perfect Results, we covered some tips on PREVENTING mistakes (or at least minimize the chances of them happening).

With all my best attempts at preventing mistakes, I am only human. The reality of life is that lace knitting mistakes will happen. Believe me, I’ve had a lot of practice in getting out of jams I put myself into (and still do!). So in Part 2, I am going to share with you a quick look at my arsenal of tips for REMEDY; i.e. correcting, repairing and recovering. I want you to know that it’s possible to deal with mistakes and survive to tell about it, lol.

Getting Back on Track
(or what to do when inevitable mistakes happen)

• Take a breath, stay calm
• Common mistakes and easy remedies

Problem: You have counted the row you just completed and find your stitch count is LESS than it should be because you are missing a yarn over.

Remedy:
Step 1. identify where the yarn over should have been and mark that position

Step 2. as you work the return row, when you come to that position, just pick up the running thread in the row below and place the picked up loop on your left-hand needle
(the picked up loop will be a bit tighter than if the yarn over had been made correctly on the original row, but the bit of difference in tension will not be noticeable after the lace has been washed and blocked)

Step 3. continue on with the return row, working the picked up loop as the regular yarn over stitch that it should have been

Problem: You have counted the row you just completed and find your stitch count is MORE than it should be because you have an extra yarn over

Remedy:
Step 1. identify the extra yarn over stitch and mark that position

Step 2. as you work the return row, when you come to that position, just drop the loop of the extra yarn over off the left-hand needle
(the area where the extra yarn over was dropped off the needle will looser be than if you had not made the mistake, but the bit of difference in tension will hardly be noticeable after the lace has been washed and blocked)

Step 3. continue on with the return row as usual

• The current row is “off” (not enough stitches to complete row; too many …; pattern design is off …)

Step 1: TINK (knit spelled backwards) – i.e. unwork stitches one by one across the row

Step 2: Recheck your stitch count, then proceed

• Pattern is just “not working out” and you can’t figure out why

With narrow lace edgings with relatively few stitches like we’ve been doing, if you have barely gotten much done anyway (e.g. still just working on the  first 2 or 3 inches), it’s usually easiest and quickest to just start over rather than stress out trying to find a problem originating multiple rows back. Give it a go again, because maybe you just overlooked or misread something the first time around. (Also see Have Our Eyes Fooled Us.)

• Anticipate calamities (e.g. dropped stitches)

On the other hand, if you are well into already having worked quite a length of lace edging, you certainly don’t want to rip and start over! That is where using a lifeline can be invaluable. It is like “Insurance for Knitters” comes in.

In short, I’ll include the basic steps below. But there is also a longer tutorial for The Lifeline available on my HeartStringsFiberArts.com website that can be helpful for working with any of your lace projects. 

Inserting a lifeline

Lifeline Preparation step: Insert a piece of contrasting thread through the stitches of a designated row, e.g. last row of pattern repeat. You will remove these contrast threads after your article is completed.

If/when a mistake shows up —

Step 1: Remove needle and rip back to contrasting thread

Step 2: Insert needle through loop of each stitch (just follow the thread so that the stitches are mounted properly)

Step 3: Recheck your stitch count, then proceed with appropriate row e.g. first row of pattern repeat